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The Current Drought and the Coming Tree-Planting Seasonby David B.
South Much of the South is currently experiencing a drought. The heat
and lack of rain decreased topsoil moisture with 93% of Alabama, 76% of
Georgia, 65% of Tennessee, and 45% of South Carolina rated short or very
short. In these areas there have been
record or near-record low streamflow levels.
To see a map showing them with daily updates, click on the U. S. Drought
Monitor: http://enso.unl.edu/monitor/monitor.html No one knows how long this drought will last, but one of the best
ways to kill a seedling is to plant it when the soil is dry. If we do not get some rain during the next
few months, the top foot of soil might become dry as a brick in some
regions. If these are conditions when
your planting crew shows up this fall, send them home. You will be taking a very big economic risk
if you decide to plant in dry soil while hoping it will rain during the next
few weeks. Do not get fooled into believing that a 1" rain will give the
soil a good soak. The best way to check
soil moisture is to dig a hole with a shovel and feel the soil at both the
surface and at a depth of 15 inches. If
there is moist soil at the top and the bottom, then survival should be high if
large-diameter seedlings (with a large root system) are properly planted. When squeezed in your hand, moist soil
should stay is a ball when your hand is opened; dry soil will fall through your
fingers. You might also check the latest map of “Calculated Soil Moisture
Ranking Percentile” by clicking on this link:
http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/soilmst/img/curr.w.rank.daily.gif If your planting area is not in a green zone, soil moisture is
likely to be inadequate. When the soil is moist, you must ensure that seedlings are planted
in a manner that will increase the chances of survival. Deep planting will usually increase the
survival of loblolly and slash pine on most well-drained sites. I recommend planting the root-collar about 3
to 6 inches below the soil surface.
Some tree planters object to this because they must make a deep planting
hole requiring use of a shovel or more time to make a deep hole). Therefore, if your area is suitable, I
recommend that you use machine planters.
Machine planters typically plant seedlings deeper than hand planters and
survival in droughty years is therefore usually higher. In some years, survival with machine
planting might average 16% to 29% higher than that with hand planters. Besides making a deep hole, another
advantage is that machine planters usually do not prune roots prior to planting
(pruning roots by hand-planters often reduces survival). If the site is not suitable for machine
planting, then planting with a shovel will result in higher survival when
compared to pruning roots and planting seedlings quickly with a
"hoedad." For much more
information on this important subject, click on this link: http://www.ag.auburn.edu:80/aaes/information/highlights/summer99/pine.html I strongly recommend use of "morphologically-improved"
seedlings (seedlings grown at low seedbed densities) since they often have
slightly higher survival than "regular seedlings." The cost is higher but when planted with a
machine in moist soil, they can help avoid a planting failure. In addition, the
"morphologically-improved" seedlings can produce more wood after 10
to 15 years. For more information on
this subject, click on this link: http://www.forestry.auburn.edu/sfnmc/shovel.html Recent studies suggest that use of certain lifting machines can
reduce survival and early growth.
Therefore, once low-density, large-diameter seedlings are ready to lift
at the nursery, make sure the roots are not stripped away during the lifting
process. The key to a successful
planting job is making sure there are no weak links anywhere in the system. |